Electric Youth by Meena Khan

WHAT DOES NEON MEAN TO ME?

Neon.

The word evokes images of endless nights of studying during which I highlighted hundreds of pages of text and stained my fingers with ink.

I fondly recall spending (read: wasting) four 1988 dollars (today it would be $12) on a pair of dangling chain earrings in which black and hot pink links were intermingled  to create an eye-catching look that made me feel like I was 14 rather than 12.

Neon was never a word that I associated with my personal makeup palette because I could not fathom wearing bright shades that  evoked images of highlighters, and then I recently asked, “Why neot?”

Neon colours are bright but their otherworldly, space-like quality, are no more or less strange to wear than deep jewel tones, which possess a deep cave like quality.

I decided to explore neon shades, and in the course of my research I rediscovered my electric youth.

NEON IS BRIGHTLY BALANCED

Neon’s extreme brightness suggests that no balance can be achieved because when you apply a neon shade, it will look clownish.  I posit that neon shades, like more traditional ones, work well with the following makeup combinations as explained by the late, great Kevyn Aucoin is his book The Art of Makeup (Callaway Editions Inc, 1994 at pages 58-59): dark eyes – dark mouth and dark eyes – light mouth.

Aucoin explained  that the dark eyes – dark mouthy combination as being, :”… stronger, “European” look, which probably works better at night than during the day.”  He followed this look by defining the dark eyes- light mouth look as, “… the most sophisticated.  Though the eyes are the same as they were for the previous look, the lipstick is now a pale shade…”

WHY NEON? WHY NOW?

Neon makeup has enjoyed several iterations since it was popularised in the eighties when it was often employed as bright pink or orange lipstick.  The modern textures and finishes permit the brightness to bloom through the products without looking chunky or garish.

Consequently, technology, and my desire to rediscover my electric youth inspired me to explore neon beauty, and I am delighted to report that when I now think of neon, I think vavoom, rather than highlighter.

FIRST – SKIN IS UNIFORM AND BASIC

Each season commands that complexions obey a certain finish, for example it should be matte for fall and dewy for spring.  Neon is so bright that the focus should be on creating a soft, uniform base that does not compete with the brightness of the makeup, regardless of the season.  I prefer to use light liquids to perfect my complexion because the finish is softer and natural.

To achieve the soft look that serves as a soft canvass for the bright makeup, I recommend using a glow base such as Clarins Milky Boost, described as a skin perfecting milk.

Clarins Milky Boost. Photo Credit: http://www.clarins.ca

When you put a drop on your palm it is milky white and then as you massage it into the face, the product adjusts to enhance your skin tone.  In my case, the white liquid  turned into a Milky Cashew (5 shades available), and immediately minimised the unevenness on my face.

From left to right: My complexion without makeup, applying the Milky Boost and my complexion with the Milky Boost blended in

It is important to address dark circles because they will distract and diminish the brightness of neon makeup.  Again, I strictly rely on a liquid concealer to perfect the eye area.  My personal favourite is Charlotte Tilbury Magic Away Liquid Concealer (20 shades available) because it is a perfect balance between peach (to neutralise the discolouration) and colour (to blend with the face).

Charlotte Tilbury Magic Away Liquid Concealer. Photo Credit: http://www.charlottetilbury.com

After I dab some in my trouble spots, I tap the product into the skin until it is blended.

From keft to right: O apply concealer and my complexion after it is blended in.

I like to set the my eye contour area with a brightening powder such as Guerlain Les Meteorites in Medium (4 intensities available).

Guerlain Les Meteorites. Photo Credit: http://www.guerlain.com

I used a medium-sized powder brush and then pass it  once over the pearls. After, I dab it in the contour of my eyes and around the mouth; two areas which for which I require a touch of brightness, in addition to concealing.

Top to bottom: I apply powder to my eye contour and my complexion after the powder has been applied to discoloured areas.

DARK EYES-DARK MOUTH

I will not employ a neon look frequently enough to justify purchasing a palette but it is so lively and refreshing, that I keep a few shades on hand when I want to look electric.

It is easier and effective to keep the eye look simple, and I love Shiseido Kajal Ink Artist in Sumi Sky which is a striking ocean blue, worthy of a Miami Vice close-up.

Shiseido Kajal Ink Artist in Sumi Sky. Photo Credit: http://www.shiseido.com

It glides on like silk, sets quickly, and lasts eight hours.  The colour is quite punchy (think blueberry-flavoured Freezie), so I apply a dot to the centre of my mobile lid, and then using the sponge tip which you detach from the other end, I diffuse the dot so that I create a blue cloud on the area.  If I want a more dramatic look, I repeat the step.

I curl my eyelashes and define upper and lower lash lines with a thin black line.  Remember that the theatricality of the look does not lie in creative lines, rather it lies in your choice of colour.  I continue the definition by using a lengthening, separating, mascara that opens the eyes, so that the whites contrast against the ocean blue.  I love the L’Oreal Bambi Eye Mascara, because the densely packed teeth on the applicator deliver mascara to each lash and lift the eye.

L’Oreal Bambi Eye Mascara. Photo Credit: http://www.lorealparis.ca

 

From left to right: I apply the Sumo Sky to the centre of mobile lid, I blend it with the sponge tip applicator, I curl my lashes, rim my eyes with black liner and then apply mascara.

I then apply a deep shade of lipstick that possesses a sharp and modern edge such as Le Rouge Givenchy Lipstick in Prune.   I note that it is no longer available but an excellent alternative is Violet Audacieux.

Le Rouge Givenchy Lipstick in Violet Audacieux Photo Credit: http://www.givenchybeauty.com

Blush is my final step because I want to assess how much is required between the strong eyes and mouth.  I apply blush with inverse intensity,  so that my face will to be overwhelmed with colour.

I use a cool, delicate blush such as Givenchy Prisme Blush in Romantica.  It is a gorgeous duo of baby pink and mauve.

Givenchy Prisme Blush in Romantica. Photo Credit: http://www.givenchybeauty.com

I twirl the bevel-headed brush on both shades and then apply it to the apples of my cheeks.

I apply the lipstick and blush et voila – Electric Finish!

                DARK EYES – LIGHT MOUTH

The dark eyes – light mouth combination within the neon context works with gradation of colour in which intensity replaces darkness to deliver the impact.

For the eyes, I love the Shiseido Kajal Ink Artist in Lilac Lotus which resembles an electric orchid.  The pink is cool-toned and striking against my dark eyes.

Shiseido Kajal ink Artist in Lilac Lotus Photo Credit: http://www.shiseido.com

The pink is not dark, so I like to draw an unabashed thick line along my upper lash line, and then quickly tap it using the sponge tip so that the pigment smokes the crease.  I then define my upper and lower lash line with a medium violet liner such as Givenchy Khôl Couture Waterproof in Iris.

Givenchy Khôl Couture Waterproof in Iris Photo Credit: http://www.givenchybeauty.com

The two cool-toned eye products are different in terms of colour but are unmistakably related which creates a cool-tone pink gradation of pink.  I finish the eye area by lengthening and separating the eyelashes using the L’Oreal Bambi Eye Mascara.

Again, I proceed directly to the lips, where I juxtapose shades and textures to create a pouty mouth that hints at neon naughtiness.  I love the L’Oréal Infallible Matte Lip Crayon in Sweet & Salty, because the bevel head delivers the perfect amount of matte pigment to my lips.

L’Oréal Infallible Matte Lip Crayon in Sweet & Salty. Photo Credit: http://www.lorealparis.ca

The Sweety & Salty shade is a deep, pink lemonade shade whose warmth clashes with the eyes in terms of tone.  However the colour is calm, like a rubber shelter in the midst of an electric storm, and sets the stage for neon naughtiness.

I dab L’Oréal Rouge Signature Lipstick in I Savor, a bright, bubblegum pink at centre of my lips.  I smack my lips together, and my lips look fuller, as there is gradation of pink from the corners to the centre of the lips.  The peak of the intensity is at cupid’s bow where the neon touch lifts the area from light to luminous.

L’Oréal Rouge Signature Lipstick in I Savor. Photo Credit: http://www.lorealparis.ca

I again use the Romantica blush but dab an extra bit of the baby pink powder to enhance the pink nature of the look.

ELECTRIC YOUTH

I admit that in my bid to be sophisticated, I forgot the first rule of makeup which is creativity.  Neon colours are bright but their ability to beautify is no less mighty than that of neutrals or jewel tones. The brightness adds fun and vivaciousness to your beauty look, and it is certainly worth it to buy a few neon shades, and reclaim your electric youth.