Not Aging, Just Proceeding to Hotness (Part 2 of 2) by Meena Khan

Part 2 of 2 of my series: “Not Aging, Just Proceeding to Hotness” focuses on the neck up, i.e. skincare tweaks and make-up.

I am not enthused by the idea of using injectibles because I have not come across longitudinal or long-term studies that conclude that the impact of muscle toxins such as Botox or fillers such as Restylane® are harmless, or at least impact neutral on the body.  The lack of comfort breeds in me a fear that in my bid to look great, I might sacrifice comfort and health in the long term.

You might answer that if there was harm the government would stop its use.  To which I respond, if Botox, which is a toxin that causes botulism, was found to be completely safe, somehow I think it would be spun into the marketing campaign.   I was aghast to learn that Health Canada does not re gulate cosmetics as much as some companies and there are ingredients and practises that are banned in the EU but are available in Canada.

I am also wary of looking like someone who has had procedures done to look younger.  Injectibles, like plastic surgery, is a melding of science and art, and just because someone has a license to practise medicine does not mean that they should mold people’s faces.  Further, there are some jurisdictions where people without medical training can apply injectibles… no thanks!  If there is skin piercing and injectibles involved, I always want a medical professional who is trained to handle allergic reactions or medical emergencies.

The uncertainty that I feel towards these anti-aging approaches drives me to eat better,   and to wear sunscreen daily, even when there is a blizzard.  The latter habit has literally saved my skin but like many women who are 40+, I am conscious of looking older.  I have made key tweaks in my skin care routine   and have adopted interesting, impactful  approaches that are easy to integrate into any routine.

Regarding make-up, I have discovered products that leave me glowing and conclude that sometimes simple techniques produce the best results.

SKINCARE

The one theme that I embrace is that what I do to my face, I do to my neck.  The neck’s skin is even thinner than that of the face.  The constant leaning over on screens  can result in neck rings, which is aging.   It is imperative that when you apply your serum and cream, that you take the products  and gently massage the neck using gentle upward strokes.  The skin on the neck also needs TLC like the cheeks and the forehead.

At night, I have started to use Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair, the legendary serum, which is designed to help the skin to renew itself while you sleep.  I must say that after five weeks of nightly usage that my skin looks smoother and firmer.

Photo Credit: Estee Lauder Canada

More importantly, it helped me to repair a pimple that I foolishly decided to pop.  The end result was a red painful bump with the gunk partially ejected.  I had a lovely scar which usually takes a couple of months to clear (the downside of having darker skin!).  I was thrilled to notice that after three weeks, the scar went from bump, to flat red dot and after 2 more weeks, it is a fading!   Adding a powerhouse serum to your nightly ritual will help to improve the appearance and quality of the skin.

Another twist on the use of serum  and  cream that I appreciate is Dior’s mix and match approach with its Capture Youth Age-Delay Advanced Creme (“Creme”) which can be enhanced by adding in drops of a serum which addresses your skin care concern.

Photo Credit: Christian Dior, Canada

For example, as we leave Old Man Winter melting in the streets, my complexion is quite bland.  With Dior’s approach, when I apply the Creme in the morning, I add a few drops of the Capture Youth Glow Booster.  My face and neck gleam with freshness!  If my skin is feeling dry and looks parched, I will add in the Age-Delay Plumping Serum to give my face and neck a fuller look.

Photo Credit: Christian Dior, Canada

When I create my mixture, I feel like I am in a French apothecary and it is empowering to know that I can alter the mix depending on my skin and the weather.

The uncomfortable truth about aging is that the face and neck do not age evenly, and some parts start to show the effects of Father Time too soon.  For me, the nasal labial folds, kindly referred to as smile lines, are my Achilles’ heel.  I have noticed that those lines, although not plainly visible, have  started to leave a scant trace.  Frankly, that scant trace is a scant too much, and I am thrilled to use Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Instant Wrinkle Filler Tri-Polymer Blend.

Photo Credit: Estee Lauder Canada

The name is a mouthful but its impact is tenfold on fine lines.  The white, odourless gel comes in a applicator tube with a refined tip.  It fits perfectly against my lines and the slightest squeeze emits the perfect amount.  After tracing the tip down the length of the line, I used my left ringer (which has the least pressure) to tap it into the skin.  The gel sets to a colourless finish and when I apply make-up on top, the surface looks smooth and I feel confident!

Skincare is a crapshoot and I strongly recommend that you obtain samples before investing in a full size jar or tube.  There is nothing worse than being conscious of the signs of aging and battling redness!  The key to being successful is consistent usage, i.e. daily or nightly, and give it five or six weeks to see the full effect.  These products complement the regime of a healthy lifestyle, other steps in skincare, and sunscreen usage.  As I walk towards the ages I want to look like the optimised version of myself which has been achieved through methods and practises that I trust.

MAKE-UP – JUST GLOW, BABY!

I have seen countless women who look great from afar but as you approach them, the false lashes, over-processed hair, overdone lips and hip clothes reveal that these women want to look young.  The common denominator with all of these women is that they lack the youthful glow which is a combination of a healthy lifestyle, good health and a positive attitude.  It is incredibly hard to recreate the youthful glow with just make-up but overdone make-up will dim the glow you possess.

The guiding adjective when selecting products and applying them is glow, even if you have normal-to-oily skin.

It is important to have a strong base which allows make-up to remain atop the skin and prevent it from sinking into the lines.  For formal events, I love Stila One Step Illuminate Skin Tone Illuminating Primer.

Photo Credit: Overcat Communications

The primer is a combination of shimmery peach, pale pink and champagne, and initially my olive skin balked.  I feared that I would look like I was suffering from attah syndrome but when I put it on, I was stunned at how my complexion looked elevated.  It went from blah to fresh in a few softly blended strokes.  I then spot applied Givenchy Photo’Perfexion Fluid Foundation and was amazed at how this lightweight liquid melted into the skin and made my unevenness indiscernible.

Photo Credit: LVMH FRAGRANCE BRANDS CANADA LTD

The combination created a lasting glow.

On the weekends, I prefer the “Easy Sunday Look”, where I look put together in a casual way without a heavy time investment.   If my complexion is somewhat sallow, I will apply the Stila Primer, otherwise I forego this step, and proceed to apply Charlotte Tilbury Unisex Healthy Glow.

Photo Credit: Faulhaber Communications

It is a lightweight, white cream that literally adjusts to your skin tone, fills-in tiny crevices, and leaves your complexion with a  sun-bisou!  It is fascinating to watch how this white product turns a healthy shade of light brown that suits my skin,  olive undertone and all!  After rubbing it in, I am ready for concealer.

Concealer is tricky because many South Asian women have dark circles which can be prominent even if you sleep for 8 hours straight on heated 800 thread count sheets.  The trick is to cover this area without drawing attention to the fine lines.  I love Nars because it has shade that suit my skin tone, are lightweight and effective.  The key is to tap on a  corrector, and the Soft Matte Complete Concealer is fantastic.  It is soft to the touch, easy to build in light layers and sets almost immediately.

Photo Credit: Shiseido Canada

Afterwards, I tap on the Laura Mercier Candleglow Concealer and Highlighter, which adds coverage and glow to the darkest part of my face.

Photo Credit: Shiseido Canada

This concealer can be used alone as the colour is quite rich but if your circles are intense like mine, the two steps are necessary.  I like using my (clean) left ring finger because its heat ensures that the products meld to the skin, and the tapping motion does not stress the delicate skin.

I set my concealer with a light touch of the Laura Mercier Candleglow Sheer Perfecting Powder.

Photo Credit: Shiseido Canada

The particles feel like soft silk and they never settle into my lines.  The sheerness of the powder means that my skin glows and if there is greasy spot, I tap some on so that I glow all over.  No one needs  to glisten!

A glowing complexion means that the rest of the make-up can be light and fresh, just like the way we looked at the age of 17 after partying on Crescent until 3 am, eating poutine until 4:30 am, then heading home to sleep for 5 am, only to get up at 10 am to work at the store… I always glowed and never thought that the day would come that I would no longer heal like the Wolverine®.

Now, I rely on curling my lashes, applying an eyelid primer, and then applying  a black liner such as Charlotte Tilbury Feline Flick.

Photo Credit: shop.nordstrom.ca

It looks like a calligraphy pen and glides on like butter.  Its pointy tip ensures that the liner can get into the lashes and create the illusion of thickness without the heaviness of false lashes.  It defines beautifully and stays all day.

The next step is to use the curling mascara such as the amazing Diorshow Overcurl Iconic Mascara.

Photo Credit: http://www.dior.com

The curling mascara preserves the curl achieved with the curler and adds a few millimetres to the wide-eyed look.  The bristles on the brush are dense but they coat and separate each lash perfectly.  On days when I want my eyes to pop, I also apply mascara to the bottom lashes.

The cheeks are key because they occupy the middle third of the face and the cheeks communicate our hidden emotions.  For example, cheeks tend to flush crimson when you are standing next to your office crush who turns around and compliments you on a good presentation.   Consequently when selecting a blush, I prefer cream ones which settle to a powder finish.  Charlotte Tilbury Beach Stick in Las Salinas is an excellent example of a cream-to-powder blush.

Photo Credit: charlottetilbury.com

It is a fresh pink lemonade shade that suits all South Asian skin tones.  Its freshness and blendability will make this product your Sunday through Saturday best friend.  I like to dab the stick on the highest point of my cheeks and then blend it out to the hairline at the temps using my fingertips.  As with concealer, I find that the creamier textures adhere better when the warmth of fingers are used to set them.  I only need to touch up after five hours of wear.

The final step is the lips, and as with the rest of the face, the “Easy Sunday Look” is about lightness.  I love the Dior collection of Lip Glows because, like the Unisex Health Glow, it adjusts to your lip shade, regardless of the amount of pigment.  Clearly, if your lips are darker the shade will not be as prominent as on a less-pigmented pair of lips but the Lip Glows always leave a pink, coral or raspberry impression.  The Lip Glow’s shiny finish creates the illusion of fuller lips and it hydrates effectively.

Photo Credit: Christian Dior, Canada

 

CONCLUSIONS

As someone who is plotting the next 10 years for her beauty routine, I conclude:

1. To maintain a great complexion, a judicially followed skin care routine which includes creams and sera that suit your needs is essential;
2. What you do to your face, you do to your neck – they are twins;
3. The ring finger on your left hand has the least pressure so use this one when applying make-up around the eyes;
4. To create a glowing look, you need a few products that work with this criterion, as glowing cheeks cannot compensate for a dull complexion;
5. A light hand, with extensive use of fingers creates a softer look, that is relaxed, youthful and fresh.

In these pictures I have captured the “Easy Sunday Look” at various angles.

 

 

 

 

 

Kala Kajal Khatum by Meena Khan

                  KALA KAJAL: AUNTIES LOVE THIS STUFF!

A desi beauty staple is the black kajal (liner).  My mother, regardless of the occasion, always wears black liner by rimming the whole eye as she believes that this technique makes her eyes look bigger.  Forget mascara, curling the lashes or white liner along the waterline, kala  (black) kajal is her panacea for any look or woe.

Mom is not alone in her fervent devotion to kala kajal as  her friends (a.k.a. the Aunties Commission) are always rimmed and ready to attend… A wedding?  Black liner applied. A funeral? Black liner applied. Prayers on Eid?  Black liner applied.  An execution?  Black liner applied.

TAKING THE BITE FROM THE PROVERBIAL APPLE… SORT OF

My mother’s  influence was pervasive on my perception of eye liner up until my twenties.  I did not even think that it was possible to apply anything other than black liner if you were desi since bright colours would look weird and not define the eyes.  However, by the time I was 21, I decided to take the bite from the proverbial apple and experiment with brown and navy blue.  Oh yes, I was a regular Mary Wollstonecraft when it came to make-up!

The shock and awe generated from veering into colours was decidedly underwhelming and it was back to black, like Amy Winehouse… sort of.

MASCARA SET ME FREE

Still the curiosity persisted, particularly when I discovered Yves Saint Laurent Faux Cils mascara in burgundy.  In the spirit of adventure, I splurged on this coloured mascara and was fascinated by how the colour actually showed up on my dark lashes and made my plain brown eyes look lively. For the first time ever I appreciated the lyricism of Van Morrison.  That experience was short-lived, (more on that below) but this mascara taught me that just because I am desi does not mean that I must wear black mascara and black kajal to make up my eyes.

In short, genetics are not my eye liner destiny.

CARMIN: LISTEN TO BIZET INSTEAD?

For a few years I limited myself to wearing Yves Saint Laurent Faux Cils Mascara in burgundy to the summer because it was (and still is) pricey – albeit worth every penny.  As my income and my addiction to the compliments generated by this mascara increased, it was adopted as part of my permanent vanity.

Fascinated by the effect of the burgundy, I started to wear purple liners.  The effect was magnified and then it happened…

I started to tear up to the point that my eyes felt raw and I had to remove the mascara.  I was mortified by this development because burgundy mascara had become my beauty signature, and it turned my eyes red.

Strangely, the wild violet and reddish liners and shadows that I wore to complement my beloved mascara also started to become unbearable.

A bit of research revealed that the culprit could be that I developed an allergy to carmine, the ingredient in make-up that creates the beautiful purples and burgundies.  The Britannica School. Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc. online: ˂http://library.eb.com/levels/referencecenter/article/24566˃, states,

“cochineal,  red dyestuff consisting of the dried, pulverized bodies of certain female scale insects,Dactylopius coccus, of the Coccidae family, cactus-eating insects native to tropical and subtropical America. Cochineal is used to produce scarlet, crimson, orange, and other tints and to prepare pigments such as lake and carmine (qq.v.)…

Cochineal has been replaced almost entirely by synthetic dyes, but it continues to be used principally as a colouring agent in cosmetics and beverages. Its dyeing power is attributed to cochineal in, or carminic acid, obtained by boiling cochineal in water…” (emphasis added)

Carmine has been associated with allergic reactions and labelling of cosmetics changed to highlight this ingredient, per the Food and Drug Administration’s register, [Docket No. FDA-1998-P-0032] (formerly Docket No. 1998P-0724) RIN 0910-AF12 Listing of Color Additives Exempt From Certification; Food, Drug,  and Cosmetic Labeling: Cochineal Extract and Carmine Declaration, online: ˂http://www.fda.gov/ohrms/dockets/98fr/E8-31253.htm˃ which states, “FDA issued the proposed rule in response to reports of severe allergic reactions, including anaphylaxis, to cochineal extract and carmine-containing food and cosmetics…”

Consequently, I now stick to black mascara and if I do see a purple or reddish eye make-up I always test before I buy.  Biting into the proverbial apple taught me that sampling and testing are important when developing new beauty looks.

NO  SHADES OF GRAY

As the dark haze lifted from my make-up vanity, I wondered why I was comfortable with wearing different colours in my wardrobe but not around my eyes.

I realised that having a desi complexion meant that I could wear jewel tones, metallics and a plethora of colours in both my clothing and make-up wardrobes… except for gray.  I never enjoyed wearing the colour because it made me look pasty and never added any zing to my look.

Further, as any desi woman worth her weight in lal mirchi understands what a bane dark circles can be on a hectic Monday morning.  Each day I apply corrector to cut the purple in the contour and then mix concealer and corrector to match the contour to the rest of my face.  On days when I am exceptionally tired I dab on a brightener.  All of those steps are for naught when I apply gray liner as it does not enhance my dark eyes and casts a shadow on the very contour that I spent three precious minutes “de-shadowing”.  I am convinced that there is not a single shade of gray that works on desi skin tones and frankly, I am not crying in my room in pain… after all there is a rainbow to conquer!

MAKING THE RAINBOW CONNECTION: KALA KAJAL KHATUM

Instead of lamenting the loss of burgundy mascara and gray liner, I now focus on how I can enhance my eyes and finish (i.e. khatum) my slavish devotion to black liner.

The first step of this liberation is to select a mascara that adds heft to the lashes because it replaces the defining function of  black liner.

The brush should have dense bristles and the mascara itself should be a searing, inky black.  My research indicates that a mascara that fulfills these criteria is Stila Major Lash Mascara. 

It deposits the mascara in an even-handed manner and builds quite easily.  The trick is to place the wand at the base of the lashes and then wiggle it to the ends.  You should wait about five seconds between each coat before layering again.  The hefty brush has a tapered tip which means that you can reach smaller lashes in the corners and build them up individually.

The key to a successful mascara application is to curl the lashes and then after eye shadow base and liner are applied then layer on the mascara.

Applying mascara to the lower lash line is a risky proposition.  If your eyes tear up frequently or you need to apply eye drops the mascara will run, mix in with your concealer and you will look like a raccoon.  Another risk is that the mascara will add darkness to the contour thus adding shadow to an area that you struggle to lighten.  Personally, I find that a single sweep of mascara deposits a minimal amount which lends itself to a light definition  with minimal risk of flaking or creating the “Twiggy look”.

TONE ON TONE: KEEPING IT CLASSIC AND HIP

A great eye liner is a bundle of contradictions as it glides across the lid without nary a tug, is a tad creamy so you can smudge it yet it sets quickly and will not budge.  Shu Uemura Drawing Pencils embody these contradictions and are a must-have for any desi woman who wants to rock her orbs with colour. This collection offers 18 shades and a number of them are colourful and offer a lovely respite from black.

My previous experience with brown liner left me with the mistaken belief that brown’s horizon stops at chocolate.  Shu’s M Brick NR 84 is a putty, terra cotta that looks wimpy but when applied around the eyes creates a halo of warmth.

With the Stila Major Lash Mascara the M Brick NR 84 comes alive.

I used Nars Orgasm blush and YSL Rouge Volupte Shine in 9.

When this liner is matched with a soft blush and gloss, the look is tone on tone, relaxed and perfect for a Sunday brunch.

TWO TONE: OFF KELTER AND UNFORGETTABLE

Believing that you can only apply one shade of liner around the eyes is like believing that the world stops at the horizon.  Perhaps it is worth it to lose that horizon and seek a Shangri-la where there is a little more colour.

I enjoy applying contrasting colours on the upper and lower lash lines.  For example, I like to line the upper lash line with a vibrant metallic green such as Shu ME Green 51 and then apply a dazzling jewel pink on the lower lash line such as Shu ME Pink 12.

A neat way to play with the shape of your eye is to apply these same colours but in a different direction.  Instead of dividing the eye  using the north-south divide, use the east-west divide instead.  This means that the upper lash line is defined with half green and half pink, and the lining is repeated on the lower lash line.  The fun part of this direction change is that the two colours can be smudged together to create an eye-catching effect.

The left eye demonstrates the east-west divide and the right eye demonstrates the north-south divide.

This vibrant eye look should evoke the seventies. I complemented the eyes with Shu Uemura Gelato in PK 01 on the cheeks and Dolce & Gabbana Violet 100 on the lips.

 MOD SQUAD

The mod look is incredibly quant when it is done in black and white.  Stila‘s Stay All Day® Waterproof Liquid Eye Liner collection teaches us that liquid liner is as colourful as its pencil brethren.  Snow is a stark white that provides a graphic anchor for the more wild colours in the collection. 

I like to line the upper lash line with Snow to contrast with the mascara and then apply a thicker line of Turquoise on top.  The tension between the black and white and the playfulness of the turquoise pull desi eyes away from the overwrought and overdone analogies to chocolate pools of mystery and invites comparisons to orbs that slice fjords.

The iciness of the eyes means that I focussed on a lighter palette. I applied Nars the Multiple in Undress Me on the cheeks and Tom Ford Spanish Pink on the lips.

PENCILS ARE NOT ALWAYS THE KINGS OF DEFINITION

Magazines have been preaching since at least the mid-90’s that you can wet an angle brush, dip it into your shadow and presto you have a great eye liner.  I have tried this trick and have met with mixed results.  I find that the richness of the shadow loses its lustre when it is applied wet.

Stila solves this problem with its innovative Magnificent Metals Eye Liner which is as sumptuous as it sounds.  According to Stila’s website, “Each Magnificent Metals Eye Liner is handmade with an innovative blackout base that allows deeply-saturated shimmer to shine through, creating an intense metallic finish…” and after testing Black Tanzanite, I add, “And how!”

This product is ultra rich and mere bristles will not properly deposit its particles.  Stila created #36 Double-Ended Silicone Eye Liner Applicator which has a thick and thin ends which allows you to control the thickness of the line. 

I delicately dip the brush into the pot and trace little lines to build a solid line across the upper lash line.  Black Tanzanite possesses an alluring depth that defines in a dark manner yet it looks bright. 

This tension creates a magnificent holiday look in one swipe.

Stila’s Black Tanzanite is powerful so the rest of my face was soft. I applied Nars the Multiple in Antibes on the cheeks and Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss in Pink Violet.

CONCLUSIONS

Eye liner is not merely a part of a desi woman’s vanity; it is loaded with meaning, which I interpret as the following:

1. We are not bound to follow the dictates of the Aunties Commission and always use black;
2. Darker skin tones can handle a plethora of colours, including wild shades and metallics – anything except gray which can emphasise dark circles;
3. In trying new colours be wary of red-based colours because they might contain carmine and cause an allergic reaction, so always test before you buy;
4. A thickening, black mascara is a must because it will define the eyes which enables you to wear colourful liners;
5. Select a pencil that is creamy and sets to a long lasting finish;
6. You can use softer colours in your make-up palette to create an overall tone on tone look;
7. You can line the eyes using different colours;
8. You can define the eyes either using a north-south or an easy-west divide;
9. Liquid liners are an excellent alternative, and can be layered;
10. Wetting eye shadow and then applying it as a liner can result in a less vibrant finish, so try a specialised liner such as Stila Magnificent Metals Eye Liner.

TO HELL WITH HYPERPIGMENTATION (PART 2 OF 2) BY MEENA KHAN

This blog post is a follow-up to part 1 which discussed how to deal with hyperpigmentation on the knuckles and scars on the hands.

This blog post continues with the theme but deals with the elbows and knees.

ELBOWS: A JAB TO THE GUT

Between being chubby, hairy and acne-laden, my elbows were (and still are) as dark as night.  This fact was not missed by some of my high school classmates and I was sometimes made fun of for same.

The elbow remark that hurt me the most was the one two of my friends made when we were 18.  We had gone out for New Year’s Eve and my friend took a picture of me dancing and my elbows happen to be up.  The picture was dominated by my face between these two black dots.

These are my elbows in 2014 but this was the pose I had made for the camera when I let down my guard and was dancing the night away on New Year’s Eve.

To have my friends laugh at me and point out the elbows was humiliating.  Years later I brought it up to one of the friends (I kicked the other one out of my life) and I told her how I felt.  She immediately apologised and it helped me a lot.

ELBOW GREASE DOES NOT YIELD RESULTS

The quantity of remarks that I received about my dark elbows inspired me to use a pumice stone on them in an effort to slough off the dark skin.  My elbows turned pink because I was over zealous, and managed to slough off the upper layer of skin.  They quickly returned to their darkened state.

I got a prescription for an exfoliating cream which I diligently applied to my elbows.  I noticed after a few weeks that dead skin was peeling off to reveal lighter brown elbows. I was thrilled but there was a still a significant contrast such that it was like comparing the brown shades of 85% and 77% dark chocolate.  Given the weak results, peeling skin and excessive cost I dropped it.

I was advised by my cousin to apply lemon juice because it is supposed to act as a natural lightening agent.  Every night I rubbed lemon juice on my elbows and said a prayer in the hope that the citric acid would break through my genetic code.  That was as successful as a penguin taking flight.

FRIENDS JUST DON’T UNDERSTAND…

As the years wore on, I accumulated scars on my legs from shaving and injuries.  Like my knees, they darkened, and never went away.  I had learned to avoid dresses and skirts thanks to my mother’s conservative values which accepted her wearing a sari that exposed her midriff, back and décolletage but disallowed me from wearing an above-the-knee skirt.  This avoidance was exacerbated by my discomfort regarding my dark elbows and knees.

Interestingly, when I cite my disdain for the colour of my joints as a reason to not wear dresses, and as the source of my discomfort for when I wear short sleeves, my friends’ reactions varies per their skin colour.  My desi friends understand and have rolled up their clothes to compare joints and scars in a show of solidarity.  Conversely, my Caucasian friends ask, “What is the fuss all about?  No one notices.”

With the utmost respect I beg to differ.

Most of my Caucasian friends like my desi friends covet a flawless facial complexion and use concealers to cover under eye bags, scars and discolouration.  If the former can appreciate the beauty of a flawless facial complexion then why not apply the same principles to the rest of the body?  Dark elbows and knees break the visual lines of the arms and legs, making them appear shorter and distracting from the beauty of clothes.  The laced hem of an A-line skirt is not enhanced by a pair of hyperpigmented knees.

BODY MAKE-UP: INITIAL INTRODUCTION

As a beauty counter saleswoman at a major department store in the early 2000’s I learned about Dermablend which is a line of products designed to cover port marks and heavy acne scarring.  The make-up was heavy then, and clearly designed to be used in extreme cases of skin damage or discolouration.

I wished that I could use body make-up on my elbows and knees but felt that the available products were too heavy.  Further, they were marketed to deal with extreme cases of damage or discolouration, so I dismissed body make up as a solution to address my hyperpigmented knees and elbows and scars.

BODY MAKE-UP: Spes aeternum oritur or SHOULD I SAY MAKE UP FOR EVER?

As the years passed, I yearned to express my femininity by wearing skirts and dresses, and to bend my elbows in public without the scintilla of embarrassment that plagued me when I knew someone saw my elbows.

One day I was exploring the Make Up For Ever counter at Sephora and chanced upon their body make up products which are designed to cover scars and discolouration.  I was intrigued because it had been years since I touched body make-up and wanted to know if they were now thin enough to be used on a regular basis by a professional woman who would rather not leave tell-tale elbow marks on her desk or a stain on her skirt.

MAKE UP FOR EVER: GAME CHANGER

I clambered onto the chair to try their products, cursing myself for having worn skinny jeans but thanking the heavens that I had shaved my legs.  The jeans were difficult to roll up but I managed to do so without cutting off the circulation to my thighs.  The artist diligently matched my skin to Full Cover Extreme Camouflage Cream (Cream), Face & Body Liquid Make Up (Body Liquid) and Super Matte Loose Powder (Powder).  As the artist layered the products (see below for details) I saw emerge the knees that I was meant to be born with.  They were not a perfect match to the rest of my legs but the make-up withered away the starkness of the hyperpigmentation, think: 85% dark chocolate lightened to a cup of milk mixed with a half teaspoon of Nestlé Quik chocolate powder.

Full Cover Extreme Camouflage Cream: This product is a thick concealer product. A little goes a long way!

Face & Body Liquid Make Up: This product is a lightweight liquid foundation that mixes the Full Cover with the surrounding skin.

Super Matte Loose Powder: This is like a face powder and it is applied as a final layer to set the make-up.

I was elated because these products would imbue me with the confidence that I needed to wear skirts and short-sleeved shirts.  Reading these words on the written page, it sounds ridiculous but it truly is not.  I accept that I cannot change my hyperpigmented joints and scars but who says that I can’t hide them.  I work hard on my arms and legs and want their strength and shape to be admired, and darkened spots distract from their overall beauty.

THE SOLUTION IN ACTION

Applying make-up to the body is not that different from applying make-up to the face, except that the canvass is larger.  To hide the hyperpigmentation on either set of joints, follow the steps bellow.  For the purposes of this blog post I photographed my elbows to demonstrate the solution:

1. Remove dead skin with an exfoliator because dead skin covered in body make-up is as ugly as dead skin covered in face make-up. I like Bio Beauté by Nuxe Toning Exfoliant with Redcurrant Pulp because its jelly-like texture is easily massaged into dry skin with circular motions, its fruity scent smells nice, and it rinses off easily;

2. The skin on the joints is tougher to hydrate because it is thicker and dryer. I like to literally oil my joints with a product like L’Occitane Firming and Beautifying Supple Skin Oil because one spritz emits the perfect amount and the oil is rapidly absorbed by the skin.

3. The first step is to apply a little dot of the Cream on the elbow because this product is richly pigmented and very little is needed to achieve the desired effect. The Cream, like under eye concealer, should be applied in thin layers until the desired coverage is achieved.  It is easier to add than to subtract.

 

4. The joints are full of nooks and crannies and it is difficult to blend in the Cream using fingers. I rely on the Bobbi Brown Foundation brush which is flat and duck-billed to stroke in the Cream and I use the edges to reach the nooks and crannies, and to spread the Cream into the surrounding area so that make-up will look diffused and natural ;

The darkness has been cut down after the Cream has been applied and blended.

5. The Cream covers the darkness and shadow of the hyperpigmented joints but as with under eye concealer it must work with the surrounding area. The Body Liquid matches the colour of the rest of the body and I dab it on using a sponge (I bought mine at the dollar store), applying one tiny blob at a time.  As with the Cream, I applied thin layers until I achieved the desired coverage;

The elbows look lighter and are blended in the rest of the arms.

6. To set the make-up, I pat on the Powder with quick dabs. I apply just a bit because as with face make-up, powder can dust off and stain clothes.  A judicious amount stays put and looks good.  I always finish by swiping off any excess particles using a fan brush such as Make Up For Ever 134;

These are the elbows that I should have been born with!

I like these Make up For Ever products because they do not budge.  As with face make-up, I do not touch my joints ever two seconds.  Further, since the make-up is a combination of textures, i.e. cream, liquid and powder, they lock each other in rather than melt into a mess.  I wore this make-up on my knees when I went to a singles mixer back in May.  The place was so hot that I thought it should have been called schwitzer mixer.  After two hours of meeting very gross guys my spirits were salvaged when I looked at my legs and my knees hadn’t rubbed off on my calves – they looked perfect.

CONCLUSIONS

Hyperpigmentation is not a death sentence it is just part of the reality of having more melanin in the skin.  I have learned:

1. Hyperpigmentation cannot be removed from the body, so accept it, save your money, and apply the principle that if you cannot go through a mountain, go around it;

2. Hyperpigmentation appears to not be well-understood by those who do not have it, and therefore they cannot truly understand what it is like to be embarrassed or frustrated by this issue. Ignore them and remember that you likely won’t understand what it is like to suffer from rosacea.  Each skin type and colour has its own beauty and challenges.  As a desi woman you might hate having hyperpigmented joints, so…

3. You can hide hyperpigmentation or at the very least downplay it with a mixture of products that match your skin tone and are of different textures which enables them to “lock-in” on the skin; and

4. When applying body make-up apply the principles of face make-up, such as ensuring that the surface is smooth, build up the intensity rather than piling it on and blend in carefully.

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Addendum: In case you are wondering what make-up I am wearing for this blog post:

Foundation: Estee Lauder Invisible Fluid Make-up 3WN1

Concealer:Laura Mercier SC-5

Eyebrows: Kevyn Aucoin in Brunette

Eyelids: Chanel Professional Eyeshadow Base in Beige

Eye Liner: MAC Deep Blue Sea Fluidline Eye Pencil

Mascara: Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Waterproof

Blush:Benefit Dandelion

Lipstick: MAC Yield to Love

Lipliner: Dior Universal Lipliner Pencil

Manicure: CND Vinylux Rose Brocade