Kala Kajal Khatum by Meena Khan

                  KALA KAJAL: AUNTIES LOVE THIS STUFF!

A desi beauty staple is the black kajal (liner).  My mother, regardless of the occasion, always wears black liner by rimming the whole eye as she believes that this technique makes her eyes look bigger.  Forget mascara, curling the lashes or white liner along the waterline, kala  (black) kajal is her panacea for any look or woe.

Mom is not alone in her fervent devotion to kala kajal as  her friends (a.k.a. the Aunties Commission) are always rimmed and ready to attend… A wedding?  Black liner applied. A funeral? Black liner applied. Prayers on Eid?  Black liner applied.  An execution?  Black liner applied.

TAKING THE BITE FROM THE PROVERBIAL APPLE… SORT OF

My mother’s  influence was pervasive on my perception of eye liner up until my twenties.  I did not even think that it was possible to apply anything other than black liner if you were desi since bright colours would look weird and not define the eyes.  However, by the time I was 21, I decided to take the bite from the proverbial apple and experiment with brown and navy blue.  Oh yes, I was a regular Mary Wollstonecraft when it came to make-up!

The shock and awe generated from veering into colours was decidedly underwhelming and it was back to black, like Amy Winehouse… sort of.

MASCARA SET ME FREE

Still the curiosity persisted, particularly when I discovered Yves Saint Laurent Faux Cils mascara in burgundy.  In the spirit of adventure, I splurged on this coloured mascara and was fascinated by how the colour actually showed up on my dark lashes and made my plain brown eyes look lively. For the first time ever I appreciated the lyricism of Van Morrison.  That experience was short-lived, (more on that below) but this mascara taught me that just because I am desi does not mean that I must wear black mascara and black kajal to make up my eyes.

In short, genetics are not my eye liner destiny.

CARMIN: LISTEN TO BIZET INSTEAD?

For a few years I limited myself to wearing Yves Saint Laurent Faux Cils Mascara in burgundy to the summer because it was (and still is) pricey – albeit worth every penny.  As my income and my addiction to the compliments generated by this mascara increased, it was adopted as part of my permanent vanity.

Fascinated by the effect of the burgundy, I started to wear purple liners.  The effect was magnified and then it happened…

I started to tear up to the point that my eyes felt raw and I had to remove the mascara.  I was mortified by this development because burgundy mascara had become my beauty signature, and it turned my eyes red.

Strangely, the wild violet and reddish liners and shadows that I wore to complement my beloved mascara also started to become unbearable.

A bit of research revealed that the culprit could be that I developed an allergy to carmine, the ingredient in make-up that creates the beautiful purples and burgundies.  The Britannica School. Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc. online: ˂http://library.eb.com/levels/referencecenter/article/24566˃, states,

“cochineal,  red dyestuff consisting of the dried, pulverized bodies of certain female scale insects,Dactylopius coccus, of the Coccidae family, cactus-eating insects native to tropical and subtropical America. Cochineal is used to produce scarlet, crimson, orange, and other tints and to prepare pigments such as lake and carmine (qq.v.)…

Cochineal has been replaced almost entirely by synthetic dyes, but it continues to be used principally as a colouring agent in cosmetics and beverages. Its dyeing power is attributed to cochineal in, or carminic acid, obtained by boiling cochineal in water…” (emphasis added)

Carmine has been associated with allergic reactions and labelling of cosmetics changed to highlight this ingredient, per the Food and Drug Administration’s register, [Docket No. FDA-1998-P-0032] (formerly Docket No. 1998P-0724) RIN 0910-AF12 Listing of Color Additives Exempt From Certification; Food, Drug,  and Cosmetic Labeling: Cochineal Extract and Carmine Declaration, online: ˂http://www.fda.gov/ohrms/dockets/98fr/E8-31253.htm˃ which states, “FDA issued the proposed rule in response to reports of severe allergic reactions, including anaphylaxis, to cochineal extract and carmine-containing food and cosmetics…”

Consequently, I now stick to black mascara and if I do see a purple or reddish eye make-up I always test before I buy.  Biting into the proverbial apple taught me that sampling and testing are important when developing new beauty looks.

NO  SHADES OF GRAY

As the dark haze lifted from my make-up vanity, I wondered why I was comfortable with wearing different colours in my wardrobe but not around my eyes.

I realised that having a desi complexion meant that I could wear jewel tones, metallics and a plethora of colours in both my clothing and make-up wardrobes… except for gray.  I never enjoyed wearing the colour because it made me look pasty and never added any zing to my look.

Further, as any desi woman worth her weight in lal mirchi understands what a bane dark circles can be on a hectic Monday morning.  Each day I apply corrector to cut the purple in the contour and then mix concealer and corrector to match the contour to the rest of my face.  On days when I am exceptionally tired I dab on a brightener.  All of those steps are for naught when I apply gray liner as it does not enhance my dark eyes and casts a shadow on the very contour that I spent three precious minutes “de-shadowing”.  I am convinced that there is not a single shade of gray that works on desi skin tones and frankly, I am not crying in my room in pain… after all there is a rainbow to conquer!

MAKING THE RAINBOW CONNECTION: KALA KAJAL KHATUM

Instead of lamenting the loss of burgundy mascara and gray liner, I now focus on how I can enhance my eyes and finish (i.e. khatum) my slavish devotion to black liner.

The first step of this liberation is to select a mascara that adds heft to the lashes because it replaces the defining function of  black liner.

The brush should have dense bristles and the mascara itself should be a searing, inky black.  My research indicates that a mascara that fulfills these criteria is Stila Major Lash Mascara. 

It deposits the mascara in an even-handed manner and builds quite easily.  The trick is to place the wand at the base of the lashes and then wiggle it to the ends.  You should wait about five seconds between each coat before layering again.  The hefty brush has a tapered tip which means that you can reach smaller lashes in the corners and build them up individually.

The key to a successful mascara application is to curl the lashes and then after eye shadow base and liner are applied then layer on the mascara.

Applying mascara to the lower lash line is a risky proposition.  If your eyes tear up frequently or you need to apply eye drops the mascara will run, mix in with your concealer and you will look like a raccoon.  Another risk is that the mascara will add darkness to the contour thus adding shadow to an area that you struggle to lighten.  Personally, I find that a single sweep of mascara deposits a minimal amount which lends itself to a light definition  with minimal risk of flaking or creating the “Twiggy look”.

TONE ON TONE: KEEPING IT CLASSIC AND HIP

A great eye liner is a bundle of contradictions as it glides across the lid without nary a tug, is a tad creamy so you can smudge it yet it sets quickly and will not budge.  Shu Uemura Drawing Pencils embody these contradictions and are a must-have for any desi woman who wants to rock her orbs with colour. This collection offers 18 shades and a number of them are colourful and offer a lovely respite from black.

My previous experience with brown liner left me with the mistaken belief that brown’s horizon stops at chocolate.  Shu’s M Brick NR 84 is a putty, terra cotta that looks wimpy but when applied around the eyes creates a halo of warmth.

With the Stila Major Lash Mascara the M Brick NR 84 comes alive.

I used Nars Orgasm blush and YSL Rouge Volupte Shine in 9.

When this liner is matched with a soft blush and gloss, the look is tone on tone, relaxed and perfect for a Sunday brunch.

TWO TONE: OFF KELTER AND UNFORGETTABLE

Believing that you can only apply one shade of liner around the eyes is like believing that the world stops at the horizon.  Perhaps it is worth it to lose that horizon and seek a Shangri-la where there is a little more colour.

I enjoy applying contrasting colours on the upper and lower lash lines.  For example, I like to line the upper lash line with a vibrant metallic green such as Shu ME Green 51 and then apply a dazzling jewel pink on the lower lash line such as Shu ME Pink 12.

A neat way to play with the shape of your eye is to apply these same colours but in a different direction.  Instead of dividing the eye  using the north-south divide, use the east-west divide instead.  This means that the upper lash line is defined with half green and half pink, and the lining is repeated on the lower lash line.  The fun part of this direction change is that the two colours can be smudged together to create an eye-catching effect.

The left eye demonstrates the east-west divide and the right eye demonstrates the north-south divide.

This vibrant eye look should evoke the seventies. I complemented the eyes with Shu Uemura Gelato in PK 01 on the cheeks and Dolce & Gabbana Violet 100 on the lips.

 MOD SQUAD

The mod look is incredibly quant when it is done in black and white.  Stila‘s Stay All Day® Waterproof Liquid Eye Liner collection teaches us that liquid liner is as colourful as its pencil brethren.  Snow is a stark white that provides a graphic anchor for the more wild colours in the collection. 

I like to line the upper lash line with Snow to contrast with the mascara and then apply a thicker line of Turquoise on top.  The tension between the black and white and the playfulness of the turquoise pull desi eyes away from the overwrought and overdone analogies to chocolate pools of mystery and invites comparisons to orbs that slice fjords.

The iciness of the eyes means that I focussed on a lighter palette. I applied Nars the Multiple in Undress Me on the cheeks and Tom Ford Spanish Pink on the lips.

PENCILS ARE NOT ALWAYS THE KINGS OF DEFINITION

Magazines have been preaching since at least the mid-90’s that you can wet an angle brush, dip it into your shadow and presto you have a great eye liner.  I have tried this trick and have met with mixed results.  I find that the richness of the shadow loses its lustre when it is applied wet.

Stila solves this problem with its innovative Magnificent Metals Eye Liner which is as sumptuous as it sounds.  According to Stila’s website, “Each Magnificent Metals Eye Liner is handmade with an innovative blackout base that allows deeply-saturated shimmer to shine through, creating an intense metallic finish…” and after testing Black Tanzanite, I add, “And how!”

This product is ultra rich and mere bristles will not properly deposit its particles.  Stila created #36 Double-Ended Silicone Eye Liner Applicator which has a thick and thin ends which allows you to control the thickness of the line. 

I delicately dip the brush into the pot and trace little lines to build a solid line across the upper lash line.  Black Tanzanite possesses an alluring depth that defines in a dark manner yet it looks bright. 

This tension creates a magnificent holiday look in one swipe.

Stila’s Black Tanzanite is powerful so the rest of my face was soft. I applied Nars the Multiple in Antibes on the cheeks and Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss in Pink Violet.

CONCLUSIONS

Eye liner is not merely a part of a desi woman’s vanity; it is loaded with meaning, which I interpret as the following:

1. We are not bound to follow the dictates of the Aunties Commission and always use black;
2. Darker skin tones can handle a plethora of colours, including wild shades and metallics – anything except gray which can emphasise dark circles;
3. In trying new colours be wary of red-based colours because they might contain carmine and cause an allergic reaction, so always test before you buy;
4. A thickening, black mascara is a must because it will define the eyes which enables you to wear colourful liners;
5. Select a pencil that is creamy and sets to a long lasting finish;
6. You can use softer colours in your make-up palette to create an overall tone on tone look;
7. You can line the eyes using different colours;
8. You can define the eyes either using a north-south or an easy-west divide;
9. Liquid liners are an excellent alternative, and can be layered;
10. Wetting eye shadow and then applying it as a liner can result in a less vibrant finish, so try a specialised liner such as Stila Magnificent Metals Eye Liner.

PARDESIS AND PASTELS by Meena Khan

When I read that the colour trend for spring 2014 is based on pastels  I immediately reflected on how I could reconcile these cool-based colours with my desi skin.

WIPE OUT BY WHITE OUT

The fundamental issue is that pastels’ coolness clashes with the warmth of desi skin.

Pastels are soft, unabashedly feminine colours that brighten up the face.  However, if your skin is darker, the delicate pinks and soft sky blues in the eye shadow set look like a white shimmery mess on the eyelids.  Pastels, especially when they are shimmery, do not have a heavy pigment and are prone to being dominated by the skin tone.  I cannot count how many times I applied pastel blue eye shadow and a sweet friend then complimented me on my mint green eye shadow.

UN PONT VERS LES PASTELS EST POSSIBLE

At first blush, it appears that when it comes to pastels biology is destiny, and darker-skinned women should avoid this spring trend.

However I opine that what needs to be tweaked is the approach towards pastels.  Pastels should not be used to create a complete look, rather they should be used create a highly-stylised look that focuses on the eyes with a beautiful accent on the nails.

Jennifer Lopez’s brilliant icy pastel make-up in the All I Have music video is an excellent reference.  Putting aside the heavy contouring and the concealer-tinged lips, Lopez’s eye make-up is unforgettable.  The icy pastels contrast against, and hence highlight, the beauty of dark eyes.

Pastel manicures, like their dark brethren, require short, trimmed nails, because one chip ruins the whole manicure.  Just because pastels are light does not make them neutrals.  They are powerful because of their milkiness and require the same diligence and care reserved for dark manicures.

PAS DE PONT ICI

I eschew applying pastels to the cheeks and lips.  Blush is supposed to highlight the cheekbones and have a somewhat natural look.  A pastel blush will highlight the cheekbones but because they contrast rather than blend in with desi skin tones the colour looks like a pair of fading pink doll cheeks.  The effect is not flattering.

Arguably pastel lips is a look, just like pastel eyes.  The problem is that there is no darkness in the lip area to anchor the lightness.  The lips’ natural darkness overwhelms pastel colours making the lips look washed out instead of fresh.

PREPPING FOR PASTELS: BASE AND TEXTURE

All make-up, and pastels in particular, require priming to neutralise naturally-occurring darkness in the skin and to create a smooth base upon which pigment sits but not slides.

I recommend covering the eyelid with a cream-to-powder primer such as Dior Backstage Eye Prime in 002 (Primer).  It is dry to the touch, spreads easily and dries quickly.  The soft mocha colour evens out the eyelid colour.

Previously (see Wipe Out  by White Out), I discussed how shimmery pastel shadows lack the requisite pigment to show up on dark skin.  Dior addresses the issue with its Diorshow Fusion Mono shadows (Shadow) which now come in a matte finish.  The Shadow feels like a soft gel sponge which sets to a powder finish in mere seconds if applied dry.  You can also moisten a brush, dip it in the Shadow and then gently tap it on the eyelid.  Again the Shadow dries in mere seconds but the pigment is richer and more opaque.  The wet application helps desi women achieve a highly-stylised pastel eyes look with minimum effort to maximum effect.

PROCEEDING TO PASTEL EYES

The following steps will help you achieve highly-stylised pastel eyes:

1. Even out skin tone and apply concealer;

         

2. Tap the Primer all over the eyelids with your ring finger which has the least pressure and hence will be gentle on the eyelid (Never pull the skin on the eyelid because it encourages wrinkle formation);

 

3. Moisten a flat, duck-billed eyeshadow brush such as Make Up For Ever 226 Straight brush (226 Brush);

4. Drag the 226 Brush across the surface of the Shadow  (My two favourites are Dior’s Céleste (a barely-there lavender) and Fantaisie (a soft peachy pink));

5. Close one eye and then tap the 226 Brush on the lower lid;

6. Wait a few seconds for the Shadow to set;

7. Define the crease by dipping a contour brush such as the Make Up For Ever 234 Straight & Wavy brush (234 Brush) in the Shadow;

8. Half close the eye and then tap the 234 Brush in the crease to define it;

9. Open the eye and continue tapping in the crease until the veil of colour is apparent (Note that in the All I Have video Lopez defined the crease with black eyeshadow.  This is risky because black eyeshadow particles can migrate and create a sooty mess.);

10. Close the eye and pull the lid taut;

11. Take liquid liner such as L’Oréal The Superslim Liquid Eyeliner in black and place the tip near the inner corner of the eye;

12. Draw short quick strokes along the eye line;

13. Return to the inner corner and then draw a smooth line that unites all of the short strokes into a single line;

14. Starting at the inner corner of the lower eye line trace a soft line along the lash line by using a steel grey liner such as Make Up For Ever Aqua Eyes 21L Dark Grey (Grey is preferable because it has the intensity of black but is soft enough to not enhance dark circles);

15. Repeat steps 2 through 14, inclusive, for the other eye;

16. Curl the lashes with Shu Uemura New Generation Eyelash Curler;

17. Apply several coats of curling and thickening mascara such as Dolce & Gabbana Passion Eyes Mascara.

CHEEKS, LIPS AND NAILS

Highly-stylised pastel eyes make quite the statement and to avoid looking like a clown, the rest of the face should be light but never bare.  The cheeks and lips  should contrast the eyes in terms of finish.  Instead of applying matte colours, apply some shimmer so that the face has dimension and does not look flat.

Highlight your cheekbones using a soft silver colour and then blend it into the skin.  I smile and dab on a few strokes of Nars the Multiple in Copacabana on the apples of my cheeks.

I then take my pointer and middle fingers and blend it up to the hairline, so that the light bounces off my bone structure and looks diffuse.  The blending is done correctly when you do not see streaks of silver, you just see definition.

As with my cheeks, I want my lips to look done and have dimension.  I use Bobbi Brown Pink Mist Lip Gloss, a soft, iris pink gloss loaded with shimmer.  Unlike lipstick, the glossiness prevents the pigment from just sitting on the lips, instead they look shiny and the colour looks fresh.  The shimmery finish refracts the light, making the lips look lush.

The nails because of their distance from the eyes enjoy freedom in terms of colour.  My spring 2014 favourite is Dior Vernis in Porcelaine, a delicate pastel sky blue that immediately evokes images of Marie Antoinette’s sumptuous gowns, such as the one she wore in her portrait painted by Lié Louis Périn-Salbreux.  Moreover given that it is not stark white, it does not contrast strongly against the hyperpigmentation in my cuticle area and was the natural choice for my photos in this blog.

PASTELS: THOUGHTS AND CONCLUSIONS

Pastels can work on every skin tone.  For many desi women a full face of pastel leads to wipe out by white out.  By focussing on the eyes and accenting the nails, desi women can transform pastels into a statement look that allows them to use colour and contrast finishes for a beautiful effect.